Low E (6) 2.00mm After that, you might get 1-2 more fret levels out of them before they have to simply be replaced with new frets (but were talking after many, many years of service here). In other words, youll have to take the saddle out of the bridge and place the paper shim underneath itand youll want it actually under the high E string (the far end of the shim), not under the B string, otherwise the saddle might rock like a seesaw. Did you specifically ask him to lower the action? High E 2.2mm. However, my guess is that if your action is 6mm and 5mm at the 12th fret, your problem is probably that the strings are so difficult to press that you simply dont have the hand strength to squeeze the barre chord hard enough. You rock!
If not, loosen the pad and try pulling the string (gently) to the other side of the groove instead. All this despite having very little clearance at first fret when pressed at the third. If you dont mind me asking, what is your objection to shimming? Your nut measurements are fine, even if they may not always be spot-on with those that have been written down somewhere.
My current guitar has action really high, so I can not compare, as I am looking for a change.
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EDIT: I forgot to address your question about the nut. Hope that helps, and let me know what you decide to do (and the outcome). Ive known a few Classical guitarists who kept a winter saddle and a summer saddle in their guitar case. Ill post measurements and videos this weekend. 6 mm in the 12th fret of low e string and 5 mm in the 12th fret of high e string(I have an acoustic guitar)Is this the reason for muted barre chord? I have a bit of relief in the neck already.
So, lower a string slot a bit, fret, test, and if necessary lower a little more. As well as reading this excellent guide Ive also looked at Gibson nut height specs are: E: 0.030 On my acoustic guitar, however, I get those suckers so low that its probably illegal in some states. I was happy but, when I play each note of the entire fretboard to test it, I noticed that only on the Low E (6) on fret number 3 and 4 I was getting a little bit of buzz when I play it a little bit harder. What this means is that you may have to spend a little more time dialing-in the setup to get a nice low action (if thats what you want) without at least a little string buzz.
Very helpful. So, the solution is to lower those string slots. Never adjust a guitar just for the sake of adjusting it if nothings actually wrong. Also, if a saddle is too low, shimming is relatively easy using the method I described earlier. Theyll exert less forward-pull on the neck, thereby allowing it to bow backward a tiny bit more than usual.
A string action gauge in millimeters or inches is, Feeler gauges (optional). Your email address will not be published.
So, if you screw up your nut, its not the end of the world (but do be prepared to have an unplayable guitar until you get it replaced).
Also replaced a new set of DAddario strings. Hold the guitar in the playing position. The A is under 0.030 as the feeler gauge lifts the string This is why we usually do the 3rd fret press test instead which Ill tell you about at the end of this section. I also took your advice and ordered some extra light and light action strings. Also I disarmed the floy rose and saw that the saddles were scrambled, then I tried to get the right position of the saddles asking to floyd rose support team, but they only told me that the order is 0-2-1-1-2-0, I replied them that mine is a 7 string guitar, I sended them images from the FR and saddles and asked again for the information, they never answered me after that. I think you nailed this answer. I usually recommend a single small piece of hardwood (ideally, one that matches the fretboards wood) to do this instead, but your method of using stacked strips of copper tape will work too in a pinch. but dont worry about all that right now. On the other hand, if youre not the DIY type or dont feel confident sanding down your bridge saddle, take your guitar to a pro. If you do, dont do any sanding. Just figured Id share my current experience since it seems were both in the exploration stage of figured this all out.
Its normal for the string height to be a bit lower under this string: Reading the height on the high E string can be a little tough. You can send me a message through my Contact Form and Ill do my best to help. Im guessing most people just assume if those 2 things are correct, the lower fretted notes should be accurate as well. Love your site and willingness to take the time to answer questions. Technically, we players shouldnt have to do things like this to get a guitar to intonate properly. Thanks for sharing. Everyone seems to have a slightly different opinion. Measuring 1st fret action in this manner is difficult (just try it, and youll see what I mean). Really though, you could experiment by putting very thin strips of paper under just the treble side of the saddle. Its hard to say what too low isas its a matter of personal taste. Generally, you want to use a single shim under the nut whenever possible. Now, do the same exact thing for the treble side: In reality, I dont actually measure string height at the 1st fret anymore, nor do many experienced guitar techs or luthiers.
How to measure your guitars string height and the tools youll need for the job (dont worry, there arent many). As you get better, you can begin raising your action a little (or a lot) if youd like to. Theres absolutely no reason for such a nice guitar, especially if its new, to need a refret. In other words, the goal isnt always to have your guitar strings as low as possible. Just progressively sand it down until you hit your ideal height. Better to pay a pro to do that or practice doing nut work on some junkers first (you can find cheap necks on ebay for less than $20). This explains why when I play a chord on the lower frets, it sounds awful and out of tune, despite me playing it properly.
Another thing you can try, which may make those bar chords easier, is really light guitar strings. When youre just checking your guitars action, its not really critical to measure at the 1st fret too. What is a high action? Should I sand the whole nut or just file the low e down. When setting up your guitarspecifically setting your actionyou would absolutely want the radius of your saddles (and therefore the radius of all the strings) to match your fretboards radius. Shimming is what Id do for this type of issue. Its not impossible, just not advisable. Hi, I have a tricky situation. seagull rh acoustic electric discontinued hg coastline momentum string ch guitar clearance acclaim
Now that you know how, measure it at the 12th fret and let me know what it is in the comments section down below. If it beeps it is touching the string. Lowering the action on an acoustic guitar usually involves a combination of twosometimes threethings: 1) adjusting the truss rod first to ensure the neck has the proper amount of relief I dont know why it happens, but sometimes the grooves get worn or the string just isnt sitting right in the groove and it produces this sitar sound. Sorry for the delay. If youd like to use fractions, youll need to do the conversion to find your values.
Low E .007 A little fret buzz. If it does, you can keep doing this method of pulling the string to one side while locking down the pressure pad, or consider trying a different brand/gauge of strings. Your concise explanations are such a pleasure to read. That said. Pay stew mac for the full size shim and thank them kindly. Firstly, guitars are made to be played and, as I said above, frets wear out. Even the high-end Martins, Taylors, etc. I asked to have settings low but without buzzing or growling. Theres no need to measure the middle 4 strings.
Theyre not trying to rip you offits actually the recommended course of action. EDIT: Okay Carlos, scroll down a bit here and youll find my reply. High E (1) 1.55mm.
I highly recommend you watch a couple tutorials first. lubricant what about the 4 middle strings..Ive just bought some nut files and was thinking of lowering them, could I use the 3rd fret method and lower them all so the are a whisper above the first fret when I am pressing the string down on the third fret?
Nothing wrong with that, however, its possible your neck might set up better with just a little more relief. Thank you for the great info! Hope that helps. When It still didnt go away, he said that I need to re-fret the guitar. But again, I could speculate all day about the setupI really have no idea without being able to inspect the guitar myself. You can always file deeper, but you cant go the other direction. When I was a beginner I had the same exact problem and it discouraged me from wanting to learn guitar.
Assuming your frets are in good shape and theres nothing otherwise wrong with your guitar, get it set up for lower action (much lower) and you should find it easier to play barre chords cleanly. One step higher the 3/32. However, to be honest, youd have to have a bit of a golden ear to hear a difference. The only way to know for sure is to check with a fret rocker. 2. How low should you go? I have tried to intonate.
I would love to hear your advice on what approach I should take, and what solutions you can recommend to avoid ugly sharp sounding notes and chords. Instead, I use the 3rd fret press test (which is demonstrated by luthier Frank Fordon his website here) to get a general sense of whether the action at the nut is correct.
Hi, thanks, I realise that the shim has to go under the saddle and not on top. I have a schecter C-7 Deluxe.
My Low E was sitting at just below a medium setting of around .090. Only then is it time to troubleshoot and start looking for ways to improve. First thing I would recommend is simply raising the action on your treble side a bit. Thanks for the amazing articles. bem ibanez discontinued baltic clearance string metallic bass guitar acclaim I would like that, but Im getting buzz. Heres something thatll set your mind at ease: nuts are a dime a dozen.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your detailed answer. Well, youd be hard-pressed (no pun intended) to find anyone who would willingly play a guitar with strings 7mm above the fretboard.
Keep me posted!
You might get lucky and find that removing the shim gets your action exactly where you want it. Never do a procedure (especially one youre slightly unsure of) for the first time on a valuable guitar you cant afford to screw up or be without. 2.
Ive never had it happen on 3 strings before. So, if you adjusted your relief youd really need to have the guitar re-set up.
So, lowering your nut action will have very little effect on the action at the 12th fret area and higher. Lighten Up! I still struggle with certain bar chords and my acoustic has ultra light strings AND really low action. Longer scale length guitars (26.5 and higher) will feel stiffer under the fingers, but its easier to get a really low action because the vibrational arc of the strings is less. Do it 1 strip at a time until the buzzing stops (assuming it stops), and then measure the high Es action to see where its at. Generally, switching to a much lighter gauge of strings wont bring your action down much, but theyre so much easier to press that it essentially gives you a similar benefit. UPDATE: The acoustic guitar setup guide is now available here: https://www.guitaranswerguy.com/guitar-and-bass-setup-guides/. Anyway. Youll take this measurement at the 12th fret with the strings open (unfretted). Since Im using a plastic nut on a cheaper guitar, Ill try further shaving and see how it works out. The reason youre seeing variation in opinions about how low they should be is because well thats just the nature of guitar work. You really love what you do. HOWEVER, heres a little fun fact: scale length does factor into the whole equation of how low you can get your strings before they buzz. Your email address will not be published.
Really, your only options would be to play the guitar less, or switch to nylon guitar strings. But, for some reason the string can vibrate against the sides of that v-groove which produces a telltale sitar-like sound when the strings are played open. So I looked the saddles and saw that two pieces have one circular mark, two more have two circular marks and thre have thre circular marks, so I thought, ok, the right order is 1-2-3-3-3-3-2-1 and I placed them like that, they create an arch just like must be (at least on my thoughts), but the sitar sound was there, not so loud as the begining but it remains, so here goes the another question: I have a question that doesnt seem to be answered easily by googling so here goes.
Reduce the feeler gauge stack by a couple of thou and go again.
Dear Sir, thank you so very much for your advice. Thats all part of setting up an acoustic.
However, if youre diving into a full setup, then you would indeed want to ensure each string is set to its optimal height (again, they should all generally follow the curve of the fingerboard). I dont want to file the nut.
One even described it as uncomfortably low. However, Ive experimented with going lower than the measurements you see in my photos above, and I start getting string buzz at various spotsunless I play with an unreasonably light touch.
2) My old guitar still plays ok in spite of some significant fret wear.
I have a question that I cant seem to find a definitive answer to. On the 12th fret the low E 3.5mm and the high E is also around 3.5. I recently fitted and replaced the old saddle and nut with bone saddle as well as the nut. The other strings seem ok. Do I cut the groove deeper on the saddle, lower nut, or shim the bolt-on neck? However, that doesnt mean you shouldnt at least try lowering your action.
Regardless, its still a little hard to know without being able inspect your guitar. I got it down to around .060 and .070 in play with the bridge for a bit, and all but a few spots played GREAT. Does this should be at .006? high E: 0.15mm Not a good idea. gibson strings guitar reissue nickel pure electric But, then I also noted that I could lower my action a good bit at the bridge. I wouldnt worry about the nut. Heres the thing: if it feels good and sounds good down there, and your intonation is good, then it IS good. And with that piezo system in there, I wouldnt want you to muck anything up. That same week I had the strings lowered on my guitar and its made such a difference. If so, there are a few resources I highly recommend for learning this stuff: What is your guitars action?
Bone nut & saddle blanks are dirt cheap, so Id recommend buying one as a sacrificial piece just for repairs like this. SensorPush Wireless Hygrometer and Thermometer Review. You want to put it back in the correct orientation. I would keep working on your hand strength before you modify your guitarespecially since it sounds like your 1st fret action is pretty low already. Glad to hear this is working. However, #3 isnt something you should attempt on your first and only guitar. I measured that the action of my guitar on low E was around 0.27 inches / 6.86 mm.
Would welcome your advice. I spent three years playing my guitar and really struggling with barred chords, along with the resulting pain in my hands, until I had a lesson with another guitar tutor who took one look at my acoustic guitar and explained that my strings were set too high. Further lowering only causes the problem to radiate outwards in a growing circle from that spot until everything from about the 14th fret onward to the 24th fret all go dead (though above the 12th its great.) strings neon guitar electric dr glow neons glowing
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